Friday, June 12, 2009

Laney Wu Dec 1996 - June 12, 2009

Summer 2004


January 2005
Cleveland Park, Washington DC


January 2007

Laney was brought to the end of her life last Friday.
Laney was a dog's dog. In fact, she was Baobei's dog (the tricolored bagle - beagle/basset above). She followed BB & me home in March 1997 when we were on the campus of the University of Georgia. She was 16 pounds & had been dumpster diving. She grew into the quintessential lab, always playful, loved to fetch anything thrown & loved to swim. Her coat was much softer than a labs. Running my hands through it was like petting a giant mink; so soft, silky & shiny. Though at times she was not the most vocal of dogs, she loved barking at the moon & into the night sky. She was a stealthy thief & loved taking big finds back to her kennel so she could fully indulge herself uninterruptedly. She was overflowing with love & affection. There are many lab muttts out there but only one Laney. We love you & miss you dearly.



Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Baby got back, back

It's been exactly 2 weeks since I had back surgery for an L4/5 disc herniation. And I think it's now ok to say that it's probably working.

No longer will I be washing a vicodin down with half a beer & bolt onto the congested beltway in order to go climb at the gym. BTW, according to one study mentioned in the NYT, this was not exactly an entirely dangerous practice. Still, I no longer have to worry about losing scripts & looking like a big fat loser (or skinny loser) poppin' that hillbilly heroin.

Silly talk aside, here's a synopsis of the story for the few fellow sufferers & others that might be interested.

-distant memories of:

  • getting an X-ray at an ortho's in high school for back pain.
  • being out for days in my 20's after tweaking my back from picking up a baby.
  • being out for days in my 30's after tweaking my back from putting myself in a weird avoid-getting-hit-by-60mph-cars position after breaking down on I-270.
-recent memories of:
  • constant intense lumbar pain & leg numbness before, but especially after, Tetons 07.
  • not being able to stand up quickly enough to catch the good waves on my 1st ever attempt at surfing.
  • having Bill Dudley play porter on Tetons 08 trip.
First I saw a family practice physician this past spring who ordered an x-ray w/ unremarkable results. I was told "you're just gonna have to say 'no' to some things". Incidentally, he is an osteopath & I did do one session of the touchy feely osteopath stuff. My low expectations did not budge. My thoughts on DO school for the future crept toward 'not-an-option'. MRI's aren't always what they're cracked up to be, but given the history & symptoms, I can't see why the family practice guy didn't order one.

After feeling that I missed out on making the most of surfing on Waikiki due to back pain (I didn't take any opioids b/c I didn't think it'd be wise to swim 'high'), I finally saw a spine based ortho in November. He is a mellow guy, not a rainmaker surgeon, as he's booked well into 2009. So I was taken aback at the words spoken upon his review of the MRI: "you're probably going to come begging for surgery w/in the next few months". After several days of contemplation and a surprisingly nerve-wracking epidural steroid injection that yielded zero relief, surgery was booked.

I climbed 5 days straight right up to the day of surgery. Surgery was 10am Tues 12/23. Got the heck out of the hospital by 6pm (the PACU people at Fairfax Innova were *great*). Had Christmas dinner w/ Charlotte & her family on 12/25. By 12/28 I felt good enough to discontinue all opioids & had zero numbness. Hiked the scrambly Billy Goat Trail on New Years' Day, sticking to the no bend-lift-twist rule by keeping my shoulders square w/ my hips.

I keep anticipating pain & still find myself bracing for pain before sneezing or coughing but I'm sure that sort of gating behavior will fade with time. Only the offending piece of disc was removed and that the remaining disc was left alone. Prior to surgery I asked if there was any way to sure up the remaining disc to prevent further reherniation. The ortho replied that he has not seen any difference in outcomes for discs left treated or untreated prioir to closure. In general, discectomies are more successful for relieving leg numbness/pain and less so for back pain. I was told there's a reasonable chance for more back surgery (disc replacement) in the *distant* future. Time will tell. Sooo thankful for decent health insurance.

One of the most reassuring & inspiring stories to me is that of Ed. He had an L5S1 laminectomy/discectomy in March 01, leaving him sad that he might have missed his chance at big mountains. Five years later he summited (& *dramatically* descended) Denali.

Here's to 2009 & beyond!!

Tuesday, September 30, 2008

Tetons 2008

Tetons 9/7-21/08 under construction. And here is the rest of it.

Friday, August 29, 2008

Maui & Oahu

under construction

Friday, April 4, 2008

A newbie's 1st trip to Indian Creek

On March 26, I flew into Las Vegas knowing only that DJ Skelton & Maddie would be picking me me up from the Sin City Airport. Based on our previous conversations, I wasn't sure where we'd end up (Red Rocks? Cali? Utah?). Half a day after landing in Vegas, I arrive at the crack climbing epicenter of the universe.

This blog entry is entitled newbies FIRST trip because, well, Indian Creek ain't really for newbs. But there's always a first, right? This will hopefully be the first of many trips to the Creek. I pretty much went into this knowing that there was very little I could have done to adequately prepare for this. My expectations for successful climbing were kept to a minimum & I knew I'd be in for maximum sensory overload.


Puffed up from my flight? salty airline snacks?
or was it excitement? bravado? or fear?

Optimator Wall.

Followed some chimney climb
(I was not expecting my 1st Creek climb to be a chimney).

Then top roped some sort of a leaning crack.














DJ & I getting our shizzle together for optimator.













Climbers on (in?) Donnelly Canyon












Climbers on the shady side of Reservoir Wall






















The Six-shooters at sunset.












Driving up to an area called The Wall.
(cue Pink Floyd please).











View from the parking area for The Wall.
Note the abandoned(?) mine.

The Wall is not actually pictured, but lies far right, at the far right end of the text you're reading.
The approach was a memorable one as the structure of the area made a distinct super windy passage.





The view upon arrival.


Someone's at the base checking out the lines.



















Maddie & DJ






















The view from the "corner" of The Wall area.


Mike Doyle surveying the land.


(climbers: his site is particularly worthy of checking out!)





DJ sizing things up as Mike &
Will Stanhope keep gazing.


(Mike is actually spying on the lower terrain... which contains little more than cow pies)

















Climbers on the end of The Wall closest to the trail.





















The previous scene, zoomed out.

The scale of everything is immense & grand.

We're certainly far far far away from East Coast climbing!



















DJ Skelton leading "Brain Damage, 5.10+"
at far end of The Wall



A 70m rope works best for this climb.

















Katie Brown project-ing "Learning to Fly" 5.13+ and the end of The Wall.





















Unfortunately by the end of the day at The Wall, I start coming down with some sort of upper respiratory flu thing. The next day (?) we head back towards Vegas to catch the tail end of Red Rock Rendezvous 2008. We crash w/ Malcolm Daly, who feeds me some of his amazing polenta (again! hyperlink to Boulder 2007 when SD card gets fixed) & sees me off to the airport.

The upper respiratory thing turns south & the flight was not kind on my eardrums...
(I am *such* a whiney baby).

As I write this my voice is still nowhere to be found, I'm coughing non-stop (which hopefully counts as a core-strengthening exercise), my eardrums still swollen... and I'm thankful that being sick affords me the time to plot my NEXT trip to the Creek! : )


PS (FYI/Suggestions):

- the actual drive from Vegas to Indian Creek is 7.5 hours/520 miles.
- the best airport to fly into is Grand Junction, CO. Drive to the Creek is ~166 miles/2.75 hours.
- Flying into Moab is also an option, but the car rental selection might be limited. There are a Jeep rental places in Moab, however.
- when mapping out drives that include Indian Creek, the best endpoint to use is Monticello, UT (not Moab).
- the more clearance your vehicle has, the better.
-Keep an eye on the gas gauge! It's ~65 miles each way from Moab to the heart of the Creek.
- Using Wag Bags is really not that bad & prolly way more pleasant than the Bridger Jack/Beef Basin Port-a-Potty, which has a huge line in the mornings.
- Bandage scissors are particularly useful (nore so than a knife) in removing tape gloves in such a way that the can be reused.
- No Partner? Virgin to splitter cracks? Take a look at Splitter Camps.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

New Hampshire March 2008

Long story short, I finally got to go ice climbing.

The pre-climbing epic involved having to go to court & driving though the hell known as I-95 (hell because & partner bailage due to sudden & unrelenting flu). I had fantasies of telling the judge: "I'll take my touron money to the great state of Vermont you legalistic puritan! Who do yo think you are? the Quaker oatmeal dude? Live Free or Die, my ass!" Fortunately this remained only a fantasy, as I am able to write this blog unincarcerated.

Anyhoo... The actual climbing days involved perfect conditions, a cozy B&B, & good company. No incriminating pictures, however.
OK, maybe one.

In North Conway, I stayed at the Nereledge Inn. I would highly recommend this place over any of the chain motels or that cheesy timeshare place hear the gear shops. It's really homey yet w/in walking distance to "downtown". The litmus test for B&B's is the tastiness of the muffins. This one definitely passed.

I was tentatively going to climb ice for the first time with a Kevin Mahoney, a guide that came with really good recommendations from reliable sources. However he had to go out of town on short notice & gave the job to Freddie Wilkinson.

I don't have any other pictures, so the following ones are "borrowed".

Photo: http://chauvinguides.com/stdicelines.htm

The first real ice climb I got to do in my whole entire life was Standard Route.






http://www.neclimbs.com/image_popup.php?ImagePath=currentContent/iceReport/ice_images/dracula.jpg&Title=dracula

The next day was Dracula,

























followed by a mixed route called the Penguin.





http://www.neclimbs.com/image_popup.php?ImagePath=currentContent/iceReport/ice_images/penguin.jpg&Title=penguin

Tuesday, March 18, 2008

Thalassemia & Climbing

A(nother) recent NYT article on thalassemia...
one way of interpreting this article as it relates to me is that I'd be better off abandoning the pursuit of all things alpine, go to Thailand & be a sport climber. Or go back to malaria (a disease that's more easily addressed via social justice & economics than schmancy biotech) research.

Sigh....

if this guy can take on the 7 summits w/ß-thal minor...

I don't really think I want to do those 7 summits.
Cooler objectives can be found in the 50 Favorites.
Bigger dreams would include the 7 real summits.